Day 12 - Detmold, Memory Lane, and a Final German Evening

We woke this morning and opened the shutters to the bedroom window to wave at the car outside, as if greeting an old friend who’d loyally waited for us overnight.

Breakfast was a deconstructed cheese roll and a milky coffee which was simple, comforting, and exactly what was needed before a day that would be anything but ordinary.

We partially packed the car and set our sights on Detmold, about three hours away. My childhood town. I felt a strange mix of trepidation and excitement, like opening a long‑sealed box of memories.

As we approached, familiar buildings appeared unchanged silhouettes from decades ago. Matt’s GPS insisted on a different route, but I knew exactly where we needed to go: into the old army camp estate at Schillingsbusch, around to Allensbusch, and then Poggenpohl. The names came flooding back like old friends.

The estate felt smaller now, and more unkept than in the military days, but my feet remembered everything. They took me straight to the front of the flats stacked three floors high. Building 20, middle on the right. I could picture the living room, the kitchen, the hallway leading to the bedrooms, and the bathroom at the end. Forty‑plus years since I’d thought about it in that much detail. The balcony at the back. Sitting on my window ledge to read. It all came rushing back.

My feet knew the path to the back of the flats, to Ray’s fish and chip shop, he used to have a chippy van before the shop was built. The video store, the small clothing shop, the tiny corner shop. The cigarette stand and kids’ slot machines were still there, like relics refusing to retire.

Memories flooded in: Mum sitting outside the flats at the bottom of the gentle slope where we used to sledge in deep winter. The sledges stored in cellar cages in the basement. The play area long gone now, including the infamous death slide built by soldiers, terrifying, unsafe, and absolutely beloved. It would never pass modern safety inspections.

We walked the local area, up and across toward the old NAFFI and the primary school called the Hak, where four of my siblings attended. The building hadn’t changed, but the surrounding vegetation had grown wild, obscuring the view. We walked the length of the school perimeter, then into the woods back towards the flats. I recognised the roots of the trees. Childhood landmarks.

Back toward the army flats, one building had broken windows and was boarded up. The whole area now houses refugees, unkept and slowly decaying. I walked over the paths where I’d played hopscotch, marbles, and of course the ski slope.

We left Hak Hill behind and headed into town via the barracks, the barbed wire, guards, mirrors, and sticks long gone. Some new buildings stood among the originals, like a patchwork of past and present.

We stopped at a café for a feta cheese sandwich and coffee, a quiet moment after the emotional whirlwind. I rediscovered the walking route from the military base into town between the houses, only used by bikes and pedestrians.

After a refreshing break, we set off for our next hotel in Recklinghausen our last night in Germany. The motorways had several closed lanes and slow traffic, punctuated by cars whooshing past at up to 130 kph. The autobahn remains gloriously lawless. Matt saw a near-miss with a car and caravan vying for the same spot ahead of us.

We arrived in Recklinghausen around 4:30. After a small diversion thanks to another closed road, we tried to park. Luckily the hotel changed the sign from “full” to “enter,” and Matt parked the car. We settled in for the evening. Hotel parking wasnt guaranteed, and luckily we got a precious spot tucked below the hotel.

Our room is spacious with wonderful bed, sofa and at the end of the corridor.

We took a stroll outside and fell into TK Maxx, because of course we did and picked up another couple of Halloween decorations.

For dinner, we fell into another irish bar, and had fish & chips/burger and chips chased down with whiskey. A perfect, end to a deeply meaningful day.

Day 11 - Leaving Denmark - The Great Car Tetris and the Robot Waiter

We had mostly packed the day before, but packing and packing up the car are two very different sports. Honestly, is it possible to purchase a car‑extension? A boot‑annex? I was wishing for a honest to goodness tardis where is is bigger on the inside. I don’t know how Matt packed it all in, but somehow we were still not done.

I was up before Matt because I had cleaning to do. I wanted to hand over the house spick and span, hopefully close to how we walked into it and that was a challenge I accepted as it really was immaculate. I chased some dust out of the house, emptied the fridge, and made Matt an omelette to set him up for the day. I had half a cheese sandwich,

We were heading south back into Germany. I’m going to miss the roads in Denmark they remind me of toyland, where everything is miniature and calm and nobody seems in a rush to get anywhere.

Matt had planned a mid‑way stop at Ikea because apparently we don’t have enough scrubbing brushes, and I have fallen deeply in love with the yellow towels that wrap around you three times. Big yellow towels. We needed more. Many, many more.

While in Ikea, we stopped for lunch. Matt had the classic meatballs, mash, and peas covered in what we hope wasn’t mushroom sauce which he loved, and I had salmon fillet with mash (sadly no peas). Matt loved his meatballs, and I was delighted that the mash didnt match my Whitby Mash. Last night I made mashed potatoes without a masher and improvised with a sieve instead. Matt has now declared that this is the new official method.

After snagging the yellow wraparound towels and some cheeky ginger thin biscuits for Cherry, Matt went to the loo while I waited. He left the store, couldn’t find me, and then returned. He was genuinely contemplating asking staff to tannoy me which would have been hilarious, especially in a German store, but he eventually found me sitting on a sofa waiting. By that point, I was starting to worry he was stuck in the loo.

We set off again, and it was an epic journey just to escape the town. We saw Ikea several times on the way out, as if the town had a magnetic force trying to pull us back in.

We arrived at a lovely quiet restaurant and hotel in the middle of nowhere and parked the car under an old‑fashioned elegant lamp post. The room was large but had no kettle. The light switches were all in the wrong place, which made for exciting unplanned game of switch‑roulette later.

After an hour of watching a German zoo programme in which I understood roughly one word in ten we headed downstairs for pre‑dinner drinks and a quiz. Then we ordered dinner: a burger and chips for Matt, and a vegan currywurst and chips for me (made out of pea protein). The food was delivered by a robot. An honest‑to‑god robot with big eyes that said hello. I nearly adopted it.

We had pudding because why not. I had a Chocolate Bomb and Matt had a bitter coffee ice cream thing. I think it’s fair to say I won.

Bed was calling along with the roulette light switches.

Day 10 - Witch Hunt

Matt had another giant sausage for breakfast, and I tucked into a banana sandwich.

We headed into Ribe for our last full day of exploring.

Parking in the same spot as previous wild wet day, we had set our sights on Hex! a permanent exhibition which will shortly be renovated and so closing in a couple of weeks until February 2027. This was an open entry and was full of stories and artifacts.

The museum tells the grim story of the ‘witch fear’ that took serious hold in Denmark and the rest of Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. This led to the infamous witch trials and their dreadful consequences.

Ribe was at the centre of the Danish witch trials, the most famous of which, involving tailor’s wife Maren Spliids, who was burnt at the stake in 1641, was played out in the streets surrounding the museum. Some of the buildings from that time survive to this day, creating an authentic backdrop to the museum’s gripping tale.

In the gift shop, Matt picked up a skull for his work desk, it gave me the heebee jeebies.

A local shop nearby provided carved wooden spoons and tins of biscuits for neighbours.

Back to the cottage, and egg and cheese omlett and then we started to sort out our bags and start to pack ahead of tomorrow.

Day 9 - Zoo Heaven

What a day! I made breakfast (giant sausage for Matt) and Cheerios for me, and was surprised by a Zoo outing. Double yes please.

The Glad Zoo was only 15 minutes away, and we pointed the car at the Parkering sign. Matt had dropped his glasses which landed by the car so all was well and disaster averted.

It was an absolute joy from beginning to end, with so many memories:

holding a Cockatooo’s hand (well both of them at one point) he pressed his body against the cage for head-rubs. His mate had red eyes, much shyer but wanted the same treatment.

We fed horses and tried to feed Kangroos and Deer who were more aloof. I came unstuck by getting into the middle of spit fight with the Alpacas. The large white one, had a baby version. Matt left me to it. Wise man.

I was delighted to meet a Capybara family, babies and all, I snapped pictures one stuck in my mind with the parent and bably nose-to-nose which was endearing.

I didnt like the goats as much, they really put me on edge but we had to walk through their enclosure to get to the kangaroo, deer and alpaca family.

The intelligent Kookaburras were staring silently and quite majestic. I pulled out my phone and looked up a kookaburra song which instantly setting them all off. It was glorious, like conducting a feathery choir.

Our first encounter of the day had been the prairie dogs: super cute, super busy, running in and out with mouthfuls of hay into holes they’d dug. I didn’t know they head‑butt the ceiling to make the entrance larger. Tiny architects.

The toilet was in the snake house. Matt spotted a blue frog, and many large reptiles were thankfully behind glass.

Two porcupines were sleeping tail‑to‑tail. I couldn’t help but comment that if they shot their spines, they’d pin each other. Nature’s booby trap.

We saw tiger cats and tiny monkeys. A family of peacocks dropped from a nearby roof, regrouped, and took a casual stroll past us like they owned the place.

The zoo ended with a rabbit area. Matt left me to it and found a bench nearby. I met baby rabbits the size of my palm and larger rabbits, one of which desperately needed grooming, tufts of fur sticking out everywhere. Everyone got head rubs, and I managed to remove some stubborn moulting tufts. He was left in a better state than I found him.

Matt had itchy eyes, so we returned home mid‑afternoon. I made pizza and salad before resting.

Dinner was a homemade burger for Matt and potato soup for me.

We’re now watching Danish TV and catching up with our blog. Tomorrow is our last full day in Ribe before we head south into Germany.

Day 8 - Art, Aromas, and Anatomically Confused Giants

For something a little different, we headed into Esbjerg, After spending far too long trying to locate it in the TomTom because we were spelling it wrong in every possible way. Eventually, we found it, and made our way to the Kunstmuseum, full of contemporary and modern art. All very interactive, all very “I have no clue what I am looking at”.

Luckily, the building had its name plastered across the entire length of the exterior, so even we couldn’t miss it. We parked up and headed inside. No wristbands this time — just a lovely lady who explained the exhibit and how to navigate it. I was mentally lost by her third instruction, but I remembered three things:

  1. There were pots we were supposed to stick our noses into.

  2. We needed to double back on ourselves to go down a floor.

  3. You could interact with the art… until it told you that you couldnt.

The museum was wonderfully eclectic. We started at the top and wound our way down through strange, warped artwork. One highlight was a giant white golf ball stuck to the wall that practically begged you to run full‑pelt at it to see if you’d bounce off. We resisted, barely but I did lean into it and give it a few pokes. There were countless paintings, several of which were deeply disturbing. “Nightmare on Canvas” which will haunt my dreams later.

We walked into a room of mirrors and there were a couple of chairs melting into the floor like they were bored. Our first room had a half-body it it. Another room encouraged us to describe a painting using expressive non‑words while the other acted as interpreter. We had far too much fun with that.

There was the disorientating white room which did knock you off-kilter. White string pulled across the room to draw art on the wall and it was quiet a strange feeling and you couldnt really capture it on film.

Then came the experimental stations, from matching pictures, to smelling bowls filled with mystery aromas. The civit and the beaver excretions were revolting, but I did correctly identify lavender and lemon/lime. After a while everything smelled like cleaning detergent, which was probably a mercy.

We headed into town for lunch, which included a pot of hot chocolate. Shops were shutting around 3 pm which is very civilised for a Saturday afternoon. Our next stop was the Men at the Sea: giant white statues facing the tides. They were impressive, imposing, and, as Matt observed, had five toes on one foot and six on the other.

We returned to the holiday house, for a short pit-stop before making a shorter trip out for bread and butter, meaning breakfast is sorted.

Matt had the remaining lasagne (which did not heat up as well as you’d hope after five minutes of microwave blasting), and I had baked beans and buttered bread a combination that will undoubtedly come back to bite me or more probably Matt later.

Day 7 - Vikings and Pigs that blew bubbles

A day at the Viking Museum… in the sunshine! Such a contrast from the day before. Thankfully our shoes had dried out somewhat on the radiator. The day turned out to be so much more than a museum. I’d been expecting an indoor exhibit with glass cases and quiet corridors. Instead, we were transported back in time to a full outdoor Viking village, complete with a mini‑zoo and Matt bashed a square peg into a round hole with a mallet, to bring home.

We were given bracelets (future scrapbook gold) and set free to explore. Each building was beautifully curated, with noticeboards outside painting vivid snapshots of Viking life. You could almost imagine someone in furs stomping out of a doorway demanding to know why we weren’t helping with the harvest or gathering moss.

All the buildings were wooden with straw and moss‑laden roofs—very rustic, very atmospheric, with the smell of chopped wood, wood-fires and moss hung in the air.

The animals were living their best lives. The pigs really did blow snorty bubbles in the pond accompanied by a squeaky grunt sound, or digging enthusiastically through a mountain of yellow hay. Horses grazed in the field opposite, a cat wandered around like it owned the place, and goats had found a corner in a field and piled on top of each other.

We watched a hawk display hosted by a lovely falconer and her assistant, Alex. The sun beat down on our backs as we took countless snapshots and videos. Mid‑display, one of the hawks flew straight into the falconer’s face. Matt caught the moment on film, she requested to see the footage footage to figure out what happened, as it had never happened before and she has been flying that falcon for over 10 years. She was shaken and explained that a bird travelling at that speed could have killed itself on contact. The falcon though defied the odds and just wanted the food instead. Thankfully, both falconer and hawk survived the incident.

The venue closed at 3:30 pm giving us just enough time to potter around the gift shop before heading home. We didnt find anything but everything was hand carved.

Many of the indoor photos didnt really come out well, I made the rookie error of changing settings without realising it. Only the outdoor pictures stand a chance of being seen.

Dinner was lasagne for Matt, and golden rice with salad and avocado for me. Simple warming food, comforting, and exactly what was needed after a day of Vikings, sunshine, and airborne birds

Day 6 - The Host and the Great Ribe Rainfall

I was woken by the host tapping on the door, very politely, but still enough to jolt me out of my cosy morning cocoon. Matt jumped straight into his jeans (a heroic act at 10:35 am) and went to greet her. She asked all the usual questions: yes, the house is perfect; no, we don’t need bed linen; and no, we don’t need to book cleaning before leaving, we can handle that. Meanwhile, I remained horizontal, not quite ready to join society. He thought she was a little old lady with gray hair… but nope - we saw her later mowing the lawn, sat astride a ride-along with bouncy brown curls, as she gave us a cheery wave.

We needed essentials, so we popped out to Netto. Our first challenge: unlocking the trolley. It required DKK coins, and of course we only had notes. So we had to buy something first. Matt chose whiskey—because if you’re forced into a purchase, you might as well make it celebratory. Once armed with coins, we unlocked the trolley and filled it to the brim. The person serving us said he’d never heard a real English accent outside of school lessons. He spoke beautifully, probably better than we did.

In the afternoon we took our first proper trip into Ribe (pronounced Reebe). We parked in the centre opposite a church and felt very proud of ourselves—two hours of parking, we think. The church was only open briefly, and someone inside was playing the organ, repeating the same section over. The building was cold, imposing, and housed many stone carvings. Matt tested out his old film camera, with more dials and buttons which doesnt have a manual.

We then had coffee and apple pie in a cafe nearby, and watched as an old lady sat outside drinking a lovely big glass of white in the rain (I know these crazy Danish folk) and we spotted a small shop to visit on the way back—potential sticker territory for our journal. Priorities.

We wandered further into the square. Ribe is the oldest town in Denmark and absolutely gorgeous. The drizzle started as a polite mist, then became persistent, then decided to go full drama. My shoes became puddles specifically designed to collect rainwater, and my Seasalt raincoat began to absorb the rain, and became a channel directing the droplets to my overfilled shoes. My dress needed wringing out. I was essentially a walking puddle. Matt wasnt much better, his jeans clung to his legs and his coat didnt protect his tshirt underneath.

Back at the house, I managed to get a basket of washing done and hung up to drip‑dry over the next day or so. The place now looks like a very organised indoor campsite.

Day 5 - Denmark

We really didnt spend any time in Bremen, but went out for a walk this morning and picked up a post-card from the museum which had strange dog statutes on each side of the steps. It was tram city and we saw some one play chicken with one, and he escaped collision by a whisker.

The local pharmacy was helpful as Matt’s hand had a chunk taken out of it by a pretty hungry horsefly.

We returned to the hotel and made our way down to -2 with our belongings. Our car was waiting for us, and we were charged for overnight parking which was just over 24 euros (and that included a 20% discount).

Matt then drove us another four‑and‑a‑bit hours north through Germany. We got caught up in several lane closures and roadworks, just the usual motorway obstacle course.

We arrived into Ribe at 4:10pm and parked up in front of our holiday home for the next 6 nights. It has a cellar (nope I am not venturing down there) and an attic room which contained another room made into a bedroom.

We are on the ground floor, stepping into a utility room with adjoining bathroom, up one step (more about that later) and into the kitchen which is really sweet but it does have a really low sink (I felt like a giant playing at house). The oven is easy to use. Stepping out of the kitchen is an elegant dining room with side-facing window with pocket glass doors to an equally lovely living room with two sofas, a writing desk, coffee table and lamps.

We unpacked the car, filled the cupboards, put the kettle on, and made a pot of coffee. Matt hung up the new sunny yellow giant towels (thank you, Ikea). Dinner was the pasta I failed to make the previous evening

We set ourselves the challenge of making the bed - yes two single quilts were stuffed into a king-size quilt cover (again thanks to Ikea) luckily we made that side-trip to stock up.

While unpacking, I fell down the single step leading to the bathroom. Let’s call this my test fall. Matt heard a thump followed by my cheerful “I’m okies.” He thought I’d dropped something, and technically I had - it was only myself and a pot of nivea.

Bedtime soon. It’s been a good but long day.

Day 4 - Into Germany

The packing was easy, but saying goodbye to the apartment wasn’t.

We had a four hour or so journey ahead of us.

It was quite a smooth car-ride, no major hick-ups - just the odd slow point.

We arrived and parked the car under the hotel directly opposite the lift, and took just our essentials and an overnight grab-bag

The apartment was small, but cosy and the building was triangle shaped.

We went out to find a beer, and ended up at Paddy’s Pit, where Matt had a couple of Murphys and I had fruit cider. After celebrating and unwinding from our epic trip, cooking pasta wasnt really something i wanted to do, so McDs it was.

We were both old-cold before 9pm, and slept for a good 12 hours.

Day 3 - Snore-powered Sightseeing

Matt snored a bit through the night, nothing dramatic, just enough to create a gentle background soundtrack, so we had a longer sleep‑in. We decided to take our feet on an adventure from the Museum Quarter up toward Anne Frank’s house. Our feet were not consulted but complied.

On the way, we wandered into a church where live music was playing.

We revisited a pancake house, but breakfast had ended, so instead we had the most amazing roasted tomato soup with chunky bread and a pot of tea. Honestly, it was so good I didn’t even miss the pancakes. The soup was the best I had tasted.

We popped into a local shop to pick up fresh veg for dinner, then let Google Maps guide us to the nearest tram stop. At this point Google Maps feels like our third travel companion, slightly bossy, occasionally confused, but ultimately helpful.

It showered in the afternoon, just enough to make everything a little muggy and give my hair ideas of its own. Springy wind tufts jut out from every angle A bobble isnt taming it.

This evening we packed up, creating an overnight bag for tomorrow’s one‑stop apartment a couple of hundred miles away in Bremen. The packing process was surprisingly efficient and we have filled up the car so we have just one trip on checking-out.

While I was making dinner, a couple tried to enter the apartment. They were very confused saying “we live here” and very much in the wrong place. I led them back downstairs where they were allocated a different room. I returned to continue burning Tempha, before swapping it for veggie rice instead.

Oh yes, we had a message about the Dutch house, we have to bring our own towels and linen, we will pop into Ikea tomorrow on route and stock up.

Day 2 - Amsterdam

After a blissful, star‑shaped deep sleep, we started the day feeling almost human again. Matt had scrambled eggs on toast, however saying “toast” is generous. The full combi‑microwave‑grill‑roast‑spaceship contraption heated the bread into something warm and cardboard like. No suntan, too much crunch so aspirational toast, which was luckily covered up by the eggs.

The power shower was glorious, the kind that makes you briefly believe you’re in a spa rather than an apartment reached after a 13‑hour odyssey. We downloaded the GVB app and added a 48‑hour travel ticket.

We took the tram into Amsterdam, which Matt has now officially renamed the Amstertram and I’m adopting it. The Amstertram dropped us outside the museum district, and off we went, ready to explore and we not yet been attacked by Dutch bicycles.

Our first stop was the Van Gogh shop, where we instantly transformed into tourists. I resisted buying one of everything, though the temptation to walk out with a sunflower‑themed lifestyle was strong.

We crossed many bridges, dodging the manic bike people who seemed determined to turn us into human bowling pins. Some of them cycled AT us. Breezing past without a care in the world.

Lunch was a pesto, gouda, and tomato toastie, accompanied by a bowl of latte coffee so large it could have been used as a bird bath. It had a heart motif. Matt then wandered into the back garden of the art gallery from next door by stepping out of the cafe-window, because there were giant heads that he wanted examine up close.

Next, we explored the surreal art gallery that mocked Disney while simultaneously selling Disney. Mickey Mouse would not have approved.

We returned to an antique shop, which opened at 1 pm on Sundays, which feels very Dutch.

After a few hours exploring the Rijksmuseum, we headed to a burger shop and ordered yellow‑brick road cocktails. They absolutely did not mix with anything sensible, but I had a salad to balance the cheeky treat. The cocktail affected my knees, and we decided to head back to the apartment to rest.

The tram stop was right outside the restaurant’s doorstep. The Amstertram whisked us back, and we ended the day feeling cultured, fed, and slightly wobbly.

Day 1 - A four-country car journey

The night before our trip I made matcha cookies which were bright green, white chocolate chips, and absolutely not brilliant. My stomach filed a formal complaint sometime around 3 a.m., and the cookie‑induced acid reflux yanked me out of a dream about work and handover. A blessing in disguise really, because it meant I could finish my tasks and pack away the laptop before the morning pack and lock-up began.

Matt potted downstairs at 4:30 when my alarm went off… except the alarm wasn’t anywhere near the bed. He had to go on a full‑scale hunt for it, and for reasons I cannot explain, it was tucked away in the bathroom cupboard. I have no memory of putting it there. None.

We left behind essentials such as tuna and olive oil, because obviously those are the things you forget and were in the car by 6:15am. I had a charming bout of early‑morning sickness right before setting off, which is exactly what you want before a long drive. We crossed our fingers that the Dartford Tunnel wasn’t closed (it had been temperamental all week), but for once all was well. We even arrived at Folkestone early enough to catch an earlier train.

Our car was pulled over for a security review, during which Matt was asked if he had packed any guns. His steering wheel was wiped for drugs. I’m not sure what triggered it, just lucky for us I guess. After that, we had to politely nudge our car back into a queue that wasn’t budging French passport control, which took forever and a day. Possibly two.

On the train we played “top or bottom,” and I won. We drove up onto the top deck, and I referred to it as the "top bunk”. Matt knew what I meant.

We arrived just after 11 a.m. and pushed through France, Belgium, and into the Netherlands. The roads are far better than the Uk however the Dutch motorways were blocked in a couple of places, with little clue on what to do, and TomTom only wanted to re-route us back to the pickle, so we abandoned TomTom for Google Maps and wound our way through pretty villages with the odd windmill, flat terrain and big sky. We were absolutely drained; I genuinely don’t know how Matt did it. Two short breaks, several burger infusions, and I feel sheer willpower.

The car added its own take on the journey. At one point it made strange noises as the filter cleaned itself, echoing dramatically in a tunnel. I’m fairly sure the car in front thought we were beeping at them because they changed lanes to give us space. During our second stop, we turned off the engine and stepped out… but the car kept blowing like a fan for a full five minutes. Just casually cooling itself.

Minutes from the hotel, the motorway exit was blocked again. Out came trusty Google Maps, and we found another route. We should have arrived at the hotel about 3:30; instead, it took us an extra two hours. We had filled the time with the radio, quizzes, map reading and burgers. Truly, I do not know how Matt kept his cool, it was super-draining and felt like we were never going to arrive.

We emptied the car, made a coffee, and took a much‑needed walk to stretch our legs and gather breakfast basics. Back at the apartment, we poured a celebratory limoncello, I do like limoncello, as we have ticked off another milestone on the mortgage, I then made us a bowl of pesto pasta, and we added to our scrapbooks. We were exhausted, but we’d made it to our fourth country in less than a day. And it was still the weekend.

We collapsed into a bed twice the size of ours at home and slept in full starfish formation. A super early night with a double-figure sleep ahead.