Bulgaria to Serbia (and then onto Croatia)

Got up at 6:30am to get ready so we could get to the car before 7:30am when the parking area became a no-parking zone and the clampers were due. Cleaned my teeth, picked up the shower which had hit me in the face when it fell off the wall.

We got close to the border very quickly and went to re-fuel as we figured that petrol might be cheaper in Bulgaria than in Serbia. Jane filled the car and paid the attendant whilst I went to the toilet. I got back to the car and we were looking at the map when a man banged on the window and said we hadn't paid. Jane said she'd go and sort it and I stayed to keep an eye on the car and its contents. Voices were raised, fists were slammed on tables, threats were made and that was just Jane. I stayed in the car. Jane came back. Apparently, it was sorted and we should probably leave now.

We got to the border about ten minutes later and despite thinking it might be a slow one, we were out of the Romanian one and through the Serbian one in fifteen minutes or so. There were notices at both saying that if we had any suggestions about how they could improve them then we could send an email. We didn't. We left and headed into the, apparent, badlands of Serbia.

The drive towards Belgrade wasn't too bad. The road users were pretty considerate but then again it was a dual carriage way and had a nice fast speed limit.

As with Romania, Serbia isn't particularly well mapped for GPS. We'd stopped at a garage with WIFI access and had found out the lat/long coordinates for the hotel and plugged those into the GPS system. By around 1pm (taking into account we'd moved back a timezone) we arrived in Belgrade. The roads were full of slow moving traffic due to a seemingly endless array of roadworks. Every time we needed to pull off for the rough area of where the hotel should be it seemed the sliproad was blocked off. We spent an hour driving round in a loop to get back to where we'd started, and then - for the hell of it - did it all again. We came off and drove some backroads of dodgy looking estates, covered in graffiti and roaming gangs of ner-do-wells *

After a further hour of the TomTom telling us we were only five minutes away, but every person we'd asked saying they'd not heard of the hotel we figured we'd cut our losses and leave Serbia behind. Perhaps it's great, perhaps we didn't see its good side but out of every country I've been to this is the one I'd never want to return to.

It appeared that TomTom wanted to stay as it was determined to continually re-route us back to Nis in Serbia, which was back from where we'd come. We did poke the TomTom at one point which made it issue but a single word; "Leave". TomTom was back on board in spirit, if not in directional ability. Jane then took over from TomTom.

We were booked into what looked like being a nice hotel for the following night so we thought we'd see if we could book a second night and head for there. Jane suggested we get through the Serbian border first (we thought there may be an issue with our entry stamps and might encounter some problems). Turned out that leaving Serbia was as easy as getting in. I suppose, having seen the place, that it's only fair that make it as easy as humanly possible to get out.

We then drove and drove. Finally after a few phone calls to the hotel to find out exactly where it was and a total of fourteen hours solid driving we arrived at the hotel. A lovely building by a vineyard. Barrels outside, grape heavy vines to the left and thousands of bottles ready for filling. It turned out to be the right decision. After being shown to our room and the night porter bringing us some cheese and tomato sandwiches we slept soundly.

* Well, perhaps there were nice, but we were knackered.

Romania to Bulgaria

Unsurprisingly the heat made us choose another early start and we headed out of town and up into the mountains for more duelling with the Romanian driving elite. The GPS was saying we'd need to get on a ferry, which I was a bit unsure of because we could have waited for hours and hours but the alternative was a four hour (minimum detour). Jane said the ferry would be a good option and she was right as it was, no pun intended, smooth sailing. The ferry ride itself was only about twenty minutes or so and cost about thirty euro. Far preferable to another four hours of driving.

We whizzed through customs and stopped just after the border to talk to the guy in the insurance booth to wave our green form at him to show we didn't need insurance and our EHIC cards to show we didn't need medical insurance either. We batted back the tattooed gentleman who was keen for us to exchange money from any currency to any other currency as long as he was in the middle of it somehow.

Lovely mountains. A great drive down to the capital, Sofia. We'd be warned to look out for awful drivers but after Romanians they seemed pretty good to us.

After landing at our hostel (which they'd done their best to hide from us) we were pleasantly surprised to see it was not what it could have been bearing in mind the word "hostel". It did cost us three euros to get the aircon control from the owner, but we'd have given him a leg * if he'd wanted because we were exceptionally hot. There was a separate small room with a novel toilet/shower combo whereby turning on the tap invariable caused the shower to start, wet the toilet paper and fly off hitting you in the face. When you're just trying to brush your teeth it adds an element of surprise that isn't always wanted.

Had a meal and cocktails with Jane's friend Philip (from her work) and his fiancée Desi until 1am in Sofia's town square. A brilliant evening.

A nice day all in all. Aside from being smacked in the face with the shower. Bastard.

* Jane's leg. I need two. One for the brake, and other for the brake.