Day 54

First stop, Nashville, Tennessee. A walk around, before heading to…

….the Capitol Building.

A coffee in Eagleville (and a postcard posted) then on to Lynchburg for the evening, ahead of the tour of the Jack Daniel’s distillery in the morning.

Lynchburg specifically, and Tennessee generally seems quite fond of Trump, and this is a dry county so you can’t even call it a drunken mistake.

Again we couldn’t toast with Jack Daniels as being a dry count you can’t buy alcohol (well, except expensive vintage stuff because that’s categorised in some other way.)

Half of the the States done.

Day 53

Passing through the bottom bit of Illinois to get to Kentucky Jane saw an abandoned hotel in McClure so we did a u-turn and found a way to get to it.

Then a short drive to “Steamboats on the Mississippi River”. From the sign:

In 1817 the Zebulon M. Pike reached St. Louis, the northern-most steamboat port on the Mississippi River. The western steamboat of later years was a credit to the frontier American mechanic who drew upon experience to build a large craft (eventually over 300 by 40 feet) which would carry heavy cargoes in shallow water against the strong Mississippi current. Owners boasted that steamboats could run on heavy dew but in fact seasonal variations in river depth limited their use - medium sized steamboats needed at least four feet of water. The influence of the steamboat spread far and wide in the Mississippi Valley and hastened the development of the region.

Snags, explosions, collisions and fires sank many steamboats. An 1867 investigation recorded 133 sunken hulks in the Mississippi between Cairo and St. Louis, a stretch rivermen called the 'Graveyard.'

Even as the north-south river trade flourished in the 1850's, transportation lines running east and west developed. Railroads which followed a more direct route than winding rivers began to haul freight to and from the Mississippi Valley. Steamboats aided the north in the Civil War, but the reorientation of civilian commerce foreshadowed their decline. Although they continued to churn the Mississippi for the best of the nineteenth century, they were eventually replaced by strings of barges guided by a single steamboat or later by a diesel boat which transported the cargoes individual steamboats had once carried.

As well pulled into the town of Olive Branch to get some lunch I thought I could hear the echo of an angry dog, but in a tent across the road was a “tent revival”. The preacher seemed to be very angry about whatever he was saying which might explain the yellow “Caution” tape around the tent.

..and then we got to Cairo.

For the most part, Cairo, Illinois, sits abandoned as of 2023. Because of the severe floods, racial tensions, financial disparage, and lack of viable population: Cairo was doomed well before the 2011 flood. Today, the town sits silent, often reminding those in surrounding areas of what it once was.

Into state twenty-two. Kentucky.

Jane saw a large obelisk in Hopkinsville so we pulled over to take a look. It was the Jefferson Davis State Historic Site. Jefferson F. Davis was an American politician who served as the first and only president of the Confederate States of America from 1861 to 1865.

It seemed as though we’d gotten to Hopkinsville just as the Amish (or, perhaps, Mennonite) rush hour started as there were a flurry of buggies. We later saw some on the interstate (or dual carriageway at least) which didn’t seem that safe.

Normally we toast a new state with some whiskey, but being in Kentucky we thought it should be some bourbon. We couldn’t find any. I’m sure we’ll get some when we get to the distillery in Lynchburg.

Dinner at Cracker Barrel (which I assume is mocked my Americans for its faux rustic decor.)

We got back to the the hotel, turned on the television, and we were watching ‘Last Week Tonight with John Oliver’ and they were talking about Franklin, the town we’re staying in. “Tennessee Neo-Nazis Show Up to Support Far-Right Franklin Mayoral Candidate.”

Day 52

First stop, the library in Warrenton for some bookmarks. Friendly people, but the first no to taking a photo.

As we drive through towns Halloween is still in full swing.

More bookmarks and a coffee in Washington.

Into Festus. The library was closed. Boo.

Got a nice lunch at the Main & Mill. The barperson had what looked liked Halloween make up, but she said there was a viking festival in town. There wasn’t a link to vikings, but it’s something they did each year. Lots of people with axes, and dressed in costumes. I looked up the name of the festival and it’s The Sigrblót Viking festival, and sigrblót means “victory sacrifice.

Day 51

We drove as far as Centralia then stopped for a coffee and the ‘Book & Bean’. Coffee and second-hand books.

Then, of course, to the library for some bookmarks. The librarian did write her name on the post-it but it’s somewhere in the car.

We got to Mexico (not that one) to see the Graceland museum (not that one). We arrived after three when it was due to close at four, but got a nice long tour courtesy of Pam/

Below is a small portion of a “metal mural” by Nikos Bel-Jon. The actual thing was very big, and I’ve no idea how long it took to complete or what technique was used.

The banister post was hollow so the mortgage paperwork could be put in it, and the inlaid star indicated that the mortgage had been paid and so people could see the star and they’d had bragging rights.

We also learned that the pin the held a cradle in place was a piece of a wood, a bough so when it broke the cradle will fall. That was the explanation for the song we were told.

We checked into the hotel in New Florence and this painting was in the wall in the lobby. It’s… well… it’s quite a thing to see as welcome.

Day 50

Day 50. A milestone. A closed road started the day.It took us into some new building estate not yet on the TomTom maps, and every turn took us to a new cul-de-sac. We wondered whether we’d ever leave. The map makes us (me) look incompetent. I asked a man who pointed and gave me enough instructions to find the interstate.

Into a town with the excellent name of What Cheer where we walked around the large flea market. There seemed to be quite a few stalls selling merchandise that said Biden is stupid/Trump is awesome. We did not buy anything from them, but did get something for mum from a less political stall. For some stall-holders the wind was an issue because of the fine sand/dust that gets blown up over things.

To Eldon, home of the America Gothic House but first into the library where Suzanne gave me some bookmarks.

It’s always odd to see a real version of something so often reproduced. I couldn’t have pointed out another painting by Grant DeVolson Wood from a line up.

Through the corn fields, across bridges and we got to our hotel in Bloomfield.

A cheap dinner from Family Dollar, because we’re classy.

The hotel had a little bar so we went for a pre-sleep drink. Fell into chatting with Tim. His niece was named after this brother Hal and so was called Halison. So, that’s a name I’ve not heard of.

There was some running joke about opening a shaken can of coke, holding it to your ear and when you opened it and you could hear the sea. Also, something about skunks.

Day 49

Walked into a nice church in Independence, Minnesota.

Far more importantly we went to the library and got some bookmarks courtesy of Amy and Kayla. There was a quiz for children where they could investigate the whereabouts of a missing Honey the Bunny. Far be it from me to point fingers, but I think it’s the farmer. The farmer is innocent until proven guilty. (Bet it was the farmer though.)

We passed through Trempealeau where Jane got excited by so many pumpkins in one place. I’ve still never eaten pumpkin, but we did buy some honey from Mary.

Onto Winona because the other route looked like it might have a closed bridge, and another library where we got another bookmark.

Across the border into state number twenty-two. Iowa. As is our tradition we toasted a new state with a small shot of whiskey - a tradition we may have to review when we get to the east coast and hit three states in one day. Having finished the cinammon whiskey, we opened the bottle we got at the biker place in Sturgis, South Dakota.

Day 48

A nice day off. Walked round locally just to the Walmart for some things, and around the big Goodwill store to pick up a couple of books. Tomorrow we’re back into Minnesota then through into Iowa so the following day we can carry on South through Iowa to get the American Gothic house.

Day 47

Half way (time wise). 47 days down, 47 days to go. Today was just driving driving driving. So many closed roads, diversions, etc. 311 miles driven today. If one photo could sum up the day it’s…

We have however got a nice hotel room with a little kitchen and we’re going to stay here for two nights and have a bit of a rest. Our plan is to change the route slightly and rather than go East through Illinois we think we’ll go South towards Louisiana.

Day 46

A day of Big Things. First one was into Vining for Nyberg sculpture park.

And a Paul Bunyan in Akeley where you can SIT IN HIS HAND.

Up up up North for another Bunyan in Bemidji. A fun big thing, but can you sit in his hand? You can not.

Day 45

A couple of miles drive from the hotel to the Minnesota Music Hall of Fame. Mostly it was people I’d not heard of bar; Eddie Cochrane, Judy Garland and Prince. They had a drawing of the Indian “Sleepy Eye” after whom the town from yesterday was indirectly named.

We went to see the World’s largest ball of twine in Darwin. It’s next to Werid Alley which would explain why some musicians who were fans of Weird Al Yankovic where there. They were travelling down to play some music in New Ulm (where we’d just come from). They were waiting for the mayor (Josh) to turn up as he was going to let them in an “smell the twine” but they had to go. We hung around for ten minutes but no mayor, and no twine sniffing.

And then another Big Thing. The twenty-eight foot Big Ole.

A symbol of Alexandria's Viking pride -- the town believes it was visited by Norsemen in 1362 -- Big Ole was built in early 1965.

Day 44

Across into state 20, Minnesota. A town called Tracy had a museum - closed, but we had a walk around the outside.

The main thing for the day was Walnut Creek where Laura Ingalls Wilder lived for a bit, and the museum that has props from the “House on the Prairie” show.

Below: “Masters Store & Hall where Laura worked while living in Walnut Grove. Built with the help of Charles Ingalls, this building is now owned by the Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum.”

Oh, and apropos of nothing, we passed through a town called Sleepy Eye - which is a great name. The town got its name from a nearby lake, which in turn was named after Sioux chief Sleepy Eye, who was known for his droopy eye.

Our hotel - eventually - in New Ulm (named after the city of Neu-Ulm in the state of Bavaria in southern Germany.)

Day 43

We spent the morning in De Smet. We saw “Pa’s” house, bought some postcards in the Loftus store (which is mentioned in the books) and.some food at Ward’s that used to be “Pa’s” store (I think). We then walked around the cemetery where the Ingall’s are buried (though not Laura who is back in Missouri.)

Into Sioux Falls for the hotel, and for another Muffler Man. Mr. Bendo.

Oh, and I just remembered, at some point today there was a food delivery robot waiting to cross the road. Do we stop for robots now? What’s the etiquette?

Day 42

The main job of the day was to drive back into South Dakota to get to De Smet to see the Laura Ingalls Wilder (“House on the prairie” things), but before then we passed through Watertown, had a sandwich (I asked for a white coffee and the cashier guy looked totally perplexed). We got an unexpected Big Thing. Another Muffler type man.

Into De Smet and the Laura Ingalls Wilder museum. You pay $10 and you can walk around the houses, church, school house and the like. Jane very much enjoyed ringing the school bell.

Oh, and if you get kicked by horse then that’s on you.

Day 41

A Big Thing (tm) in Steele, North Dakota. The typical sandhill crane measures in at about 47.2 inches and weighs between 119.9 and 172.8 ounces. The World's Largest Sandhill Crane measures in at 40 feet and weighs about 4.5 tons.

We went to the Buffalo Museum. The word buffalo is derived from the French “bœuf,” a name given to bison when French fur trappers working in the US in the early 1600s saw the animals. They have the largest buffalo statue in the world (named after 3500 suggestions, Dakota Thunder), so another Big Thing (tm), but - as far as we could see through the binoculars, no live buffaloes.

Food out with pudding and beer.

Day 40

Before we checked out we walked over to the museum. It was a mix of dinosaurs, cowboys and creationism. The lady there thinks the Earth is 6-10,000 years old and that there were dinosaur eggs on the ark. So, there’s that.

Their dinosaur head is called Garth. (Grand a River Triceratops Horridus.)

There’s a sculpture of Hugh Glass who was played by Leonardo DiCaprio in The Revenant.

From Wikipedia on the mauling.

Glass and the rest of the Ashley Party eventually returned to Fort Kiowa to regroup for the trip west. Andrew Henry, Ashley's partner, had joined the group, and he along with Glass and several others set out overland to the Yellowstone River. Near the forks of the Grand River, near present-day Shadehill Reservoir, Perkins County, South Dakota, while scouting for game for the expedition larder, Glass surprised and disturbed a mother grizzly bear with two cubs. The bear charged, picked him up, bit, slashed and lacerated his flesh, severely wounded him, and forced him to the ground. Hearing Glass’ screams for help, several of the party made their way to Glass and killed the bear. In words attributed to another trapper, Hiram Allen, who was at the scene: "the monster had torn the flesh from the lower part of the body, and from the lower limbs. He also had his neck shockingly torn, even to the degree that an aperture appeared to have been made into the windpipe, and his breath to exude at the side of is neck. Blood flowed freely, but fortunately no bone was broken, and his hands and arms were not disabled." The men were convinced Glass would not survive his injuries; nevertheless, they carried Glass on a litter for two days, but doing so greatly slowed the pace of the group's travel.

Henry asked for two volunteers to stay with Glass until he died and then bury him. John S. Fitzgerald and a man later identified as "Bridges" stepped forward, and as the rest of the party moved on, began digging his grave. Later, claiming that they were interrupted by attacking Arikara, the pair grabbed the rifle, knife, and other equipment belonging to Glass and took flight. Fitzgerald and "Bridges" later caught up with the party and incorrectly reported to Ashley that Glass had died. There is a debate whether Bridges was actually famed mountain man Jim Bridger.

Despite his injuries, Glass regained consciousness, but found himself abandoned without weapons or equipment. He had festering wounds, a broken leg, and deep cuts on his back that exposed his bare ribs. Glass lay mutilated and alone, more than 200 miles (320 km) from the nearest American settlement at Fort Kiowa, on the Missouri River. Glass set the bone of his own leg, wrapped himself in the bear hide his companions had placed over him as a shroud, and began crawling back to Fort Kiowa. To prevent gangrene, Glass allowed maggots to eat the dead infected flesh in his wounds.

Using Thunder Butte as a navigational landmark, Glass crawled overland south toward the Cheyenne River where he fashioned a crude raft and floated downstream to Fort Kiowa. The journey took him six weeks. He survived mostly on wild berries and roots.

A stop in a town called Flashing for pizza, then on to Bismark and the nineteenth state of North Dakota.

Into Bismarck, and the Capitol building that’s nice inside but from the outside pretty much looks like a block of flats. Up to the eighteenth floor for a view of the city (well, you can see for thirty five miles on a good day.)

Day 39

Another day off from driving, so a day in Lemmon. The town overlaps the border so we walked up Main Street, crossed the railway line and popped into North Dakota.

Day 38

The plan for today was to drive 240 miles then stay in the same place for two nights to have a rest. So Jane booked a motel in Lemmon (still South Dakota.)

Our only planned stop was Deadwood to see the graves of “Wild Bill“ Hickok and Calamity Jane. She’s asked to be buried next to him, and was. Then a drive down the hill to walk around the town.

We were going to push through until the hotel (as it’s just a hundred miles on one road, so put the cruise control on and sit there), turn right, cruise control back on for another seventy miles. But, we came across Sturgis. I had in my head there was the famous bike related meet up in Sturgis but I didn’t connect with it being in South Dakota. They had a Muffler Man so we pulled in. Oddly, or co-incidentally, the Muffler Man was originally in Winnemucca, Nevada which we’d stayed in back on day twenty-one.

The lady behind the bar (co-owner?) told us the original place had burned down eight years ago due to a faulty fridge. It had been a “Six alarm fire” and though the fire engines were quick to arrive there was no water, as the hydrants where due to be installed three weeks later. Everything there now is about eight years old.

About 240 miles since the start of the day we checked into the motel in Lemmon (whose local guide is called, yes, Lemonn Aide. The hotel directory tells me the town has one bar, and nine churches. Surely the wrong way round.

Day 37

Into South Dakota. State eighteen.

Today was the trip to Big Head Mountain (that some people call Mount Rushmore.)

It was designed via a 1/12th model that was constantly changed to best fit into the natural shape of the mountain. Most of it was created with dynamite.

Some facts:

  • The original plan featured a different set of figures (rugged regional heroes such as Lewis and Clark, Buffalo Bill Cody, and the Oglala Lakota leader, Red Cloud.)

  • Calvin Coolidge was courted for federal funds.

  • Theodore Roosevelt isn't wearing glasses.

  • There's a hidden chamber behind Lincoln's head.

  • Attempts have been made to add a fifth face. (Ronald Reagan, for one.)

From a look out on the way back down the mountain you can pull in and get a side look of Washington.

A nice little chalet type home for the evening in Custer. Custer is a nice little town, but close enough to Mount Rushmore to be geared towards tourists with lots of t-shirt shops.

Finished the evening with a bottle of “Calamity Jane” which was nicer than you might think. Tomorrow we’ll be passing through Deadwood where she’s buried.

On the back of the bottle.

Our family has been handcrafting South Dakota wines since 1876, the same year that Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood. As a rider for the Pony Express, Calamity Jane was known for being a skilled markswoman, for wearing men’s clothes and for her tall tales, such as her claim for being Wild Bill Hickok’s bride.

Day 36

A short drive to Chugwater. Population 150.

Some historians hold that the name "Chugwater" is derived from a Mandan account of a bison hunt. According to this narrative, a chief was disabled during the hunt and his son took charge of the hunt or "buffalo jump". Under his direction, hunters drove the bison over nearby cliffs; when the animals reached the ground below, a sound of "chugging" was heard by the hunters. The story concludes with an etymology: since a stream was near the base of the cliffs, the site of the stampede has been called "the place" or "water at the place where the buffalo chug. — Wikipedia

We had a nice drink in the Soda fountain (the oldest soda fountain) in Wyoming. Then across to the store which sells a little bit of everything (but not international stamps, but equally neither did Chugwater post office). The person there wanted to make some stickers that said; “I parked outside Chugwell store” and “I used the restroom and they made me buy this sticker.” but they were vetoed. I’d have bought them.

On the windmill (below.)

This windmill was funded and erected as a lasting legacy for Wyoming's Centennial Celebration (1900-1990) by the Chugwater Historical Unity Group (CHUG), Chugwater Economic Development (Ched), the town of Chugwater and the Aid of a grant from the Wyoming Centennial Commission.) — Wikipedia

Coffee and food in Lagrange then over the border into state seventeen. Nebraska.

Past Chimney Rock into McGrew (Population 105 in 2010) as we had it as a ghost town.

Checked into the hotel in Alliance, then back in the car to drive out to Carhenge.

Just north of Alliance, Nebraska, along Highway 87, stands a replication of Stonehenge, England’s ancient mystical alignment of stones that chart the sun and moon phases.Stonehenge stands alone on a plain in England.Carhenge towers over the plains of Nebraska.

Carhenge consists of the circle of cars, three standing trilithons within the circle, the heel stone, slaughter stone, and two station stones. Sir John Aubrey first recognized the earthworks and great stones as a prehistoric temple in 1648. It was not until excavations undertaken in the 1920’s that there were found to be holes cut to hold timber uprights. A total of 56 holes were discovered and named the Aubrey Holes in honor of his observation.

The artist of this unique car sculpture, Jim Reinders, experimented with unusual and interesting artistic creations throughout his life. While living in England, he had the opportunity to study the design and purpose of Stonehenge. His desire to copy Stonehenge in physical size and placement came to fruition in the summer of 1987 with the help of many family members. Carhenge was built as a memorial to Reinders’ father who once lived on the farm where Carhenge now stands. While relatives were gathered following the death of Reinders’ father in 1982, the discussion turned to a memorial and the idea of a Stonehenge replica was developed. The family agreed to gather in five years and build it. The clan, about 35 strong, gathered in June of 1987 and went to work. The dedication was held on the Summer Solstice in 1987 with champagne, poetry, songs, and a play written by the family.

Thirty nine automobiles were placed to assume the same proportions as Stonehenge with the circle measuring approximately 96 feet in diameter. Some autos are held upright in pits five feet deep, trunk end down, while those care which are placed to form the arches have been welded in place. All are covered with gray spray paint. The honor of depicting the heel stone goes to a 1962 Caddy.

Additional car sculptures have been erected at the site known as the Car Art Reserve. One of the first sculptures to be added is the “Spawning Salmon” created by 29 year old Geoff Sandhurst from Canada. He won a $2500 prize and placement of his car art creation at the Reserve.

Reinders’ “Fourd Seasons” comprised only of Fords and inspired by Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, suggests the Nebraska landscape’s seasonal changes as wheat is planted, grows, matures, and the field lies barren during a windy winter.

The three bells, built by Reinders represent the three Reinders siblings. The various sculptures and time capsules (Car-sules) have been contributed by local people over the years as the Car Art Reserve continues to grow.

Jim Reinders gave Carhenge and the 10 acres of ground to the Friends of Carhenge, a local group of dedicated people who preserved and maintained it until October of 2013 when it was gifted to the City of Alliance. — Ref: carhenge.com

Day 35

Into state 16. Wyoming. First museum of the day Messenger's Old West Museum in Cheyenne Wyoming. If you want something to haunt your dreams there’s a model of the queen with scary lighting. Of, if you prefer, you can see William F.Cody’s (Buffalo Bill) carriage. As one of the youngest, and most daring Pony Express riders he holds the record for longest single ride of 320 miles in less than 21 hours.

Capital Cheyenne (Capitol building below), and another museum. The Wyoming State Museum. Wyoming became a state in 1890. A minimum population of sixty thousand was required for statehood. They gave women the vote in order to attract more, because they needed to grow the population - they said. Oh, and to encourage learning they had a rule that in the library could have a maximum of 25% fiction.

By the Capitol building is George Washington’s elm.

Sapling from tree that George Washington took command of the American Army in Cambridge, Massachusetts on July 3, 1775. Donated by D.A.R. to Wyoming as a sapling in 1934. Rededicated by the Wyoming State Society D.A.R. in 2018.

We saw the Summit Rest Area Lincoln. “The Lincoln Monument is a bust of Abraham Lincoln by Robert Russin, 12+1⁄2 feet high and resting on a 30-foot-tall granite pedestal.”

The final museum of the day was the Wyoming Territorial Prison.

Born Robert LeRoy Parker, he changed his name to Butch Cassidy when he began his life of crime. Later known as a legend of the American West and leader of the Wild Bunch, Cassidy was incarcerated at the Wyoming Prison at Laramie, for grand larceny (stealing horses) from 1894-1896. This would be the only Prison to ever hold Butch Cassidy. Upon his release he would establish the most successful band of bank and train robbers this country has ever seen. Butch and his gang would steal over $233,905.00 from trains, banks, and mining payrolls all over the West in five years. Cassidy, the Sundance Kid (Harry Alonso Longabaugh), Kid Curry and other Wild Bunch gang members were some of the most wanted men in four states with Pinkerton detectives, posses and bounty hunters dogging their steps. Butch and the Wild Bunch would become the country's last horseman outlaws. In 1901 the gang dissolved, Butch, the Sundance Kid and Etta Place set sail for South America. Cassidy may have died in a gun-fight with local law enforcement authorities in San Vicente, Bolivia in 1908 or he may have returned to the United States under another identity. His fate remains a mystery. Ref: www.wyoparks.wyo.gov.

Hotel in Wheatland and just in the room before the storm thundered around.us and gave the car a wash.