Into Colorado

Our alarm were train toots really close to the motel.. the room rattled awake. We filled up the car and stomachs and planned a route taking us to Green River, Cisco, and Grand Junction in Colorado. We took a couple of side trips to see Rabbit Valley and Dinosaur museum.

In Green River, Matt rediscoverd the typewriter we donated on the last journey. The coffee shop was shut, but Matt saw someone inside and politely tapped on the door and the owner recognised him. We got to see the typewriter high on a shelf with a written note wrapped around the barrel. A local artist had used this as inspiration for a painting. The owner is selling up but the typewriter will remain for future patrons.




Helper

We had an early start and headed south to Helper. This meant travelling through Salt Lake City which I am not a fan of. The traffic on a Saturday morning should have been light, I was so wrong at a few points there were 6-8 lines of traffic. Hyper vigilance mode was activated. We pulled off a couple of times along the way and again hit roadworks.

We arrived in Helper, which is nestled in rock mountains called Price Canyons. Helper is named for Helper Engines, which made the trains that pulled the Coal over the mountains which miners had harvested. We had a beer and lovely chat with a third-generation miner he talked about many things but what has stuck were the mice in the tunnels which in the underground canteen became pets. We also strolled around the local museum and had lunch/dinner in the only restaurant.

Now tucked into a bare bones motel. Tomorrow we find ghost towns.

Clean Museum

It was a gentle meandering style of day which started with banana toast, as all good days should. We are heading towards Utah today to tick this off the list - it is the home of Salt Lake City which gave us the heebie jeebies the last time we visited.

We unexpectedly fell over a Muffler Man (giant) in the Museum of Clean in Pocatello - and it isn’t as boring as it initially sounds. I had moments pouring over the irons through the ages. Back in the day, they thought it was the weight which made the iron effective and these babies are dense.

Out of the Ordinary”

While most museums have a single subject focus, this one is far beyond that. Clean dominates the value of everything that affects life—like clean air, clean water, clean language, clean beds, floors, politics, jokes, arteries, teeth… and how about clean art?

One floor had me doing an about-turn as it was creepy. On other floors we were amused and stepped back in time and some of the smells transported me back to my childhood. One section was dedicated to vacuums from the 1800s, organised by age and brand. I said it was where vacs to go heaven… whilst Matt commented it was more like hell.

On the way to a cafe we saw a streak of a black cat fly in front of our car.. I can tell you our hearts raced as Matt saw it make it across multiple traffic lanes safely… that is one lucky cat. It took a little while to find my equilibrium before remembering to uncurl my buried fingers.

We are now settled in Logan, explored the area and I can tell you that I am not keen on the swarms of giant Crickets that fly and jump all over the place as they have taken over this State. They really freak me out as they are unexpectedly jumpy. The other day a giant flying black beetle jumped on my arm and I nearly lost it, well actually I did. Matt did a blocking manoeuvre whilst I tried desperately to open a hotel door whilst the Beetle circled and planned its second attack.

We are now tucked up watching a live cop show while I shuffle and reorganise my suitcase.

Our sticker and flat pennies collection are growing.

Another Time Zone Change

I am not sure when it happened, but we lost another hour today. This means it is nearly 10pm and I am wide awake. [edit: Panic Not - there was no time zone change - our car clock was wrong] Today’s journey is taking us into a loop to pass through Utah and then Colorado over the next week. if you are keen to see our route as we build it day-by-day.. do click here Current Route.

We pushed out boat and bought baked beans for dinner - but with it being American they are not ordinary baked beans, they were super sweet and a weird colour - regular sauce wont do, this is maple sauce and as tasty as it sounds. Even the cheese horns were not savoury. Super super sweet. Honestly… we swapped to soup instead followed by yoghurt. We are living the dream.

Anyway - here are today’s pics:


Montana

It was a cooler morning as we packed the car. The first stop was Wallace which didnt disappoint and according to the city is The Center of the Universe so well worth a visit. City of Wallace, Idaho | The Center of the Universe

While there we flattened a penny for my flat penny collection (for those keen to keep up to date, this is my 14th flat penny).

We went to a mining museum and I have a camera full of pictures and stories. Back in 1921, it would have cost you 150 dollars to give birth or spend 100 dollars to have your foot amputated.


Kellogg, Indiana

We took a couple of days away from the adventure, to rest up, throw the suitcase through the washer and relax in a one bed apartment with views of mountains.

We have a 260 mile trip tomorrow, into Montana and a different time zone but we will start with breakfast on the balcony.

Yellow

We woke in Oregon and left the hotel quite late after a gentle start and car-content shuffle. We then pointed the car at the next state via a few ghost towns which actually are not ghost towns. The first stop was Athena which was pretty splendid, with friendly folk and historic buildings. One such building has involved the community and a music teacher with a dream of restoring an iconic gem of a theatre. He and his volunteers have completed much of the work themselves, over a 19 year period. The building is reinforced just in case there is an earthquake, buying time for people to leave. The walls are really thick and aged about 1908. The owner has also restored a Cry Room in the theatre, for patrons with young restless children, it contains a glass window so that the parents can still see the show whilst calming their child. Restoration is ongoing and you can keep up with the changes on Facebook at Athena’s Gem, Inc. Rob Mcintyre was kind enough to show us around and listen to some interesting stories.

There was also a magnificent garage, possibly the oldest building in the town.

We then went to Milton-Freewater

We couldnt find Fort Walla Walla Museum but we found a great pub (also known as a Husband Day Care Center) which had the best burgers and pizzas in Weightsburg. The floor was strewn with peanut shells. The owner warned us of strict speed limits in the next village and also suggested a detour which was pretty and we discovered Big Things on Route. It also took us to the highest point so far, and Matt described looking down into what felt like the Grand Canyon as we climbed through yellow hills.

During the drive, we have passed through Washington (not that Washington) the state, not capital, and into Idaho. Most of the landscape is Yellow, so very very yellow. It feels like we are driving through one gigantic farmland.

We are sleeping in Moscow (the town not country) and tomorrow we take a holiday from our holiday with a two night break away.

ps.. I think I am addicted to Cranberry and Walnut Salad.

Trees and Ghosts

We planned to visit a bunch of ghost towns, and we did. We visited Austin, Whitney, Sumpter and Granite. We travelled for hours through mountains held up by forests. It was a sight to see. Sumpter was a great ghost town but it had an oversized CBD shop, explaining why everyone is so chilled.

We are now in Pendleton, at the top end of Oregon. Tomorrow is a new state and we add to the fridge.

Austin

As a supply depot for mining towns, Austin’s longevity depended on the existence of mining towns that it served. As the mining towns began to disappear, Austin began its decline. The town’s population at its height was around 500 and had offices for doctors, lawyers and other professionals. It had three sawmills with all the business they could handle turning out lumber for flourishing mining towns. The hotel and stagecoach way-station was owned and operated by a Mr. and Mrs. Minot Austin giving the then growing community its name. The station was used as a hotel for hunters as late as the early 1930s but by the end of World War II, the population had dwindled to about 50 souls. 

Whitney

Whitney was the prime station on the 80 mile long, narrow-gauge Sumpter Valley Railroad. 14 rail crews were stationed in town and 75 people were employed at the local saw mill which supplied lumber for the surrounding gold mining camps. Even with all this activity, the population never rose above 100. The town began its decline after the fire at the saw mill in 1918. 

Whitney was one of those towns that was not a mining camp but was in the middle of those that were. It was strictly a logging town and somewhat on the boisterous side. A killing here and there, now and then. Miss Erma Cole taught school in Whitney in the winter of 1919-1920. She reports the temperature during that winter reached 55 degrees below zero and stayed there for a short time before it warmed up to 50 degrees below zero.

Granite

Many years ago during the gold rush, Granite had a population of 5,000 people. A handful still remain today. Even though the town is quite isolated, a small store serving cold drinks is ready to welcome all travelers. The building in the photograph was erected in 1888 and was first used as a school house, then later as the city hall. It was built on a small hill and leans to the right, overcompensating for the slope.

Granite was first settled on July 4, 1862. It was then only natural the settlers would name the town “Independence.” Not so said the postal authorities for there was already a town by that name in Oregon. The next choice was “Granite” for the prevailing rock in the region. The buildings are vacant and most in a stage of near collapse. There is a road through the town leading to small private claims.

Lakes and Mountains

12 miles or so out of Lake View, we were skirting the Abert Lakes. This was such a contrast from the deserts and rugged rock mountains. The lakes are too salty for regular fish, but life is teeming in the form of Brine who only live for two months, lay hundreds of eggs which takes two days to hatch. Brine can live with 98% of their moisture gone. Birds thrive in the area and the lakes attract Black-neck Stilt, Phalaropes, American Avocets and Canada Geese.

We then headed north through Wagontire, Hines, Burns, Seneca Valley, Canyon City (visiting a historical museum) and then resting for the evening after 223 miles in John Day. Along the way we drove through proper canyons, roads with deep dips where Wheeeeeeeeeeee became part of the journey. We also drove through mountain forests and deep valleys with an exciting switch back roads. Such a contrast.


Spot the faces in the rocks

Barn hugged by a forest

We had a couple of pints in 1189 pub down the street and now typing up our respective blogs and planning for tomorrow’s trip.



Hello Oregon

We are sleeping in State 11 of 48. We had a lie-in and was one of the last to leave the motel in Winnemucca. We planned to get breakfast/brunch half way into today’s trip into Oregon.


We stopped half way at Denio, a place where only 29 people live. The post office official also runs the local bar and has a pony called Alpacchino. We were directed to a small restaurant 3 miles down the road at Denio Elbow, where we had grilled cheese / pulled pork sandwiches.

The drive from Denio to Lakeview was very changeable. We drove through deserts pinned down by brushland and observed sand funnels climbing high into the sky, to sharp moutains and tight roads to majestic mountains with giant trees. We were heading into skiing country.






Winnemucca, Nevada

We woke from a deep sleep into a slightly cooler morning in Austin. I think the cheeky cocktails helped. We have got into a routine of packing/unpacking and repacking the car each day. After fuelling, we headed towards Winnemucca with mostly quieter roads and wider landscapes. Sometimes its easy to forget we are still travelling through desert until you hit waves of sand across the road. Trucks thundering past making visibility zero for a few heartbeats, this was repeated several times in 5 minutes then no cars at all for many many miles - with 80+ miles on one road the landscape rolled by in wonderous colours today it turned from yellow back into green.

We stopped at a museum which was great, the building served as a kitchen to feed cowboys, then lodging before being moved across the country and set up to house the history.

Now settled into Winnemucca (such a fabulous name).

Beautiful Austin

We are in a quaint small town of 100 people in Austin, Nevada and looking forward to having dinner out at Grandmas restaurant later this evening. We also had the pleasure of meeting a lovely couple, Lori and Mike who invited us over for a drink and to show us their church. They were generous with their time and shared stories. Lori is talented and an author as well as managing the town’s library which was originally a bank and they live in the parsonage. Mike had restored much of their house and is building a spa. It was mentioned that mountain lions stay in the hills but the deer come into town and leap over fences to eat the newly planted garden. We have their address to keep in touch.

In the church we were lucky enough to pull the bells but Lauri is the campanologist. It takes a lot of effort.

The drive into Austin was a little scary, not a fan. However the scenery was breathtaking. We have taken video so will try to upload this later in the week.

We also got to see a famous sign (having driven 100 miles to see it) I think you would agree it was worth the effort.

Aliens and Clowns

That pretty much sums up the day. With Death Valley closed we still managed to skirt around the edges and take in some great experiences. We found the Area 51 Alien Center (along with a Cathouse Brothel) and a giant Firework. Not all related. We filled up the petrol tank (everyone we speak to mentions it).

In the desert we visited Rhyolite City a ghost town. We saw the Jail, Train Depot, Minors Hall, Tom Kelly’s Bottle House, School House and a Open Air Museum which showed Venus of Nevada (a giant lego shaped lady).

We found Goldfield mostly closed, apart from a shop selling nik-naks and rocks. It is Labour Day Weekend and most shops are shut.

Staying the night in a Clown Hotel in Tonopah. Yes. A real life Clown Hotel.


Into Nevada

Ok, we are currently replanning a significant section of our trip. Over the past couple of days we have encountered closed roads and trails due to Hurricane Hilary damaging the infrastructure. We had to avoid traveling to Oatman due to flooding and impassable routes. Two days ago the national park service closed all roads into and through Death Valley. North of Death Valley in Nevada 78,000 people are attending BurningMan an event similar to Glastonbury and are currently unable to leave due to extreme flooding.

We are no longer visiting Death Valley (Rhyolite, Rachel, Hiko, Belmont, Tonopah) packed full of ghost towns and the extra-terrestrial highway.

we have skirted around the closed roads taking in an addition 50+ miles and this evening tucked up in a lovely hotel in a town called Pahrump in Nevada. Now that name is just a little bit windy.

We had breakfast at Peggy Sues near Calico (Ghost Town) in California and then did our best to tame TomTom who took us on a mighty journey. Great views and I took lots of videos (those walls of mountains were very huggy and steep).

Tomorrow will be a magical mystery tour.

Into California

The road to Oatman wasnt passible in our low Dodge Challenger which is only a few months old and we didnt fancy Christening it. Only landrovers seemed to be able to pass. We did an about-turn and headed to Barstow via Amboy and Bagdad Cafe - we remembered the person running it, but she seemed very confused and we just hope she has someone looking after her. We paid for drinks that she didn’t have but thought she was holding, it was heart breaking to see her confusion. She spontaneously gave us a hug. It was sad leaving her.

Other than the sadness of the Bagdad Cafe owner, it was a day of wonderment as the hills and landscape changed with each turn of the wheels. We also saw supersized trains and I took many videos. The 66 Route has degraded roads and TomTom kept getting confused. We drove 300 miles today, so tomorrow will be less as we head into Nevada.

Our hotel is quirky and built in the 50s with paper thin walls. between the neighbours and being on a busy street earplugs may be needed.

Bearizona

Pinch Punch everyone.

It was another amazing day. We were up and out early (Flagstaff roads were a bit of a ‘mare) we were sad to say goodbye to our hotel. On the way into Williams we discussed Prime Numbers. Did you know there are different group names? No? Neither did I… go and fill your boots at List of prime numbers - Wikipedia Happy Primes!

We spent most of the day in Williams, visiting Bearizona, a drive through safari park followed by seeing lots of animals in vast exhibits. This place really is something else and worth the visit. It was a joy from the first to the last minute.

We also stopped in Seligman, Ash Fork, and Hackbury.

Route66 took us on a delightful journey through sharp hills and soft yellow flowers towards Kingman. We needed to swap out our hotel (it was pretty grotty) and are now sat on sofas in a lovely room eating strawberry cake with a nip of Fire Whiskey.


In Flagstaff

We arrived early in Flagstaff, and the check in was wonderful and they were very kind and informative. If the team is reading this, thank you.

We are going out for dinner so delayed blogging until tomorrow (we are here for two nights so can catch up)

Painted Desert

We had planned for a gentle day of 154 miles, however our adventures took us in other directions and we gathered 220 miles. The route today was Grants-Milan-Bluewater-Prewitt-Continental Divide-Coolidge-Gallup-Painted Desert-Holbrook. It was slightly cooler but through the day it burned and melted us.

The hotel provided breakfast where I burnt a waffle, but the fruit and yoghurt was great. If you are wondering, Matt took one look at the eggs and instead had toast with cream cheese.

We first stopped off at Indian Trails and spoke to Mary Lou who had been working there for 9 months helping Mr Freeman. He had a rich story and shared this with Matt. We left having made new friends. Bluewater was closed but I did manage to capture a picture of a wild lizard who froze to the spot as I approached with the camera.

Matt spotted a Meerkat in the road (or something similar) waiting for traffic to pass before zipping across the highway. Later in the morning we saw a blur of a wild rabbit skipping over the road, I swear his toes didn’t touch the ground and I held my breath. If it wasn’t the wildlife it was a house on the move with wide load across multiple lanes. We sucked in the car as it eased past us.

We waved at Coolidge which was blocked in by road works. Every major road we step into, contains miles of roadworks - even the orange cones are super sized into orange barrels and concrete barricades.

Grants proved a delight with old signage and a Giant Muffler Man Cowboy perched on the top of a car lot. We took a divert to look at Window Rock but it was 21 miles away (which we would have to back-track on) but on the journey we saw some epic skylines.

We then plugged the hotel into TomTom, but we discovered it passed the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert. This is by far the best part of our adventure so far and if I could click my fingers I would move into this area. There is a particular building that has Whitby House all over it.

In the Painted Desert we discovered our first petroglyphs, carved into the rock over two thousand years ago. Many incoming photos are below - I just couldn’t narrow it down any more.. at least you are not seeing the hundreds I took. With thanks to Matt, who is patiently teaching me how to take better photos.


A bit of Route 66 heritage

Leaping Lizards

Into the hills

We were up early to venture into the ear-popping mountains of Santa Fe. We love this state, which is flooded with rich colours and warm people. We explored the state capitol, then the oldest house in America. We took the scenic route through winding hills into Albuquerque and tucked into a hotel in Grants.